Land's End to Porthgwarra
Walk
Cornwall Coast Path

Cornwall Information & Accommodation Guide


Gwennap Head (Tol Pedn Penwith)

Gwennap Head (Tol Pedn Penwith)


Land's End to Porthgwarra 3.8 miles (6.1 km)

This section of the coast path takes you from one of the most famous landmarks in the UK, along spectacular granite cliffs, passing stunning, rocky coves with magnificent rock arches, past unusual rocket shaped markers and through a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) which at particular times of the year becomes a haven for rare migratory birds, to Porthgwarra, a picturesque cove used in the filming of Poldark.

Car parks are shown on the map.

The Land's End Visitor Centre has shops and facilities and the village of Sennen is a short distance away with two small supermarkets.

1. Find your way to the First and Last House. Standing here on Land's End, looking out to sea over what was formerly known as the Western Approaches, now called 'The Celtic Sea', you stand on the first landfall of the UK mainland known to the ancient Greeks and Romans as Belerion. This location was not always called Land's End. It used to be referred to as Sennen Land's End to distinguish it from Tol Pedn Penwith further south along the coast.

As you begin the walk at the First and Last House, you will notice a number of oddly shaped granite formations the first of which stands on the most westerly extremity of the Land's End, Peal Point and is called Dr Syntax’s Head. This is named after a fictional character, a cartoon schoolmaster, written by Dr William Combe, illustrated by the famous caricaturist Thomas Rowlandson and published in Rudolph Ackerman’s 'Poetical Magazine' between 1809 and 1820.

The First and Last House is exactly as described and is today a cafe.

2. Follow the coast path towards the Land's End Visitor Centre, staying on the seaward side, unless you wish to visit, taking care not to stray too close to the cliff edge. A cave known as the Land’s End Hole is below you.

You will pass Dollar Cove. A suspension bridge used to span the cove but it was removed several years ago. This small cove has seen several shipwrecks including the French fishing boat 'La Varenne' which sank here in 1972. A few weeks later, on the 5th November, a Cypriot coaster 'Nefeli' ran aground here, sitting on top of the wrecked French vessel.

Dollar or Dollah Rock offshore is a favourite spot for seabirds. In 1876, J T Blight, in his book, 'A Week at the Land's End', commented on the large number of gulls who congregated on this rock. Today, a wildlife observation point has been established on the cliffs here, where you can find out about the bird and other wildlife that lives around the coast.

3. Continue up the coast path.

Offshore is Peber Rock lying just to the south of The Peal

4. You walk across Carn Pebo as you approach the hotel.

5. You reach Carn Kez where the hotel now stands.

Formerly, Carn Kez was the location of a small house owned by the First and Last Inn where visitors could leave their horses to be looked after while they explored the cliffs. The house at Carn Kez eventually developed into the hotel you see today.

During the Second World War, part of the original house was damaged by the Luftwaffe when a plane returning from a raid on Cardiff jettisoned its remaining bombs. The incident killed and injured a number of local fisherman.

In the build-up to D-Day U.S. troops were accommodated in the hotel leaving the building in a poor state.

6. Looking seawards you will see another example of the unusual shapes formed by the erosion of the granite, Dr Johnson’s Head.

In 1755, Dr Samuel Johnson wrote the first Cornish Declaration of Independence, reasserting the county's rights to self-government which had first been created by King John. In 1201 the king had granted a charter to the tin miners of Cornwall and Devon, acknowledging their 'just and ancient customs and liberties'. This later led to the establishment of the Cornish Stannary Parliament.

The nineteenth century artist Joseph Mallord William Turner RA spent some time at the Land's End. Standing at Dr Johnson's Head he sketched the landscape looking up the north coast. This sketch was the foundation for Turner's 1813 watercolour, 'Land’s End, Cornwall: Approaching Thunderstorm'. A year later he made an engraving of the view which was featured in a series called 'Picturesque Views on the Southern Coast of England'. Today the sketch is in the Tate Gallery.

Today, this area is very popular with rock climbers. There are over 195 climbs.

7. Looking out to sea, another prominent feature is the Longships lighthouse.

This structure was built by the Trinity House Engineer-in-Chief, Sir James Douglass, in 1875. The tower stands feet 35 metres above the sea at high water. It stands on Carn Bras (big rock), the largest of the Longships rocks. The other two large islets are known as Tal-y-maen and Meinek.

It was not the first lighthouse to be built here. As early as 1790 concerns were being expressed regarding the number of ships that had been lost on the rocks here during storms or even due to poor visibility and the alleged actions of local inhabitants who were said to profit from salvaging cargo from wrecked vessels, a practice referred to as 'wrecking'. In 1791 Trinity House obtained a patent and gave a lease to Lieutenant Henry Smith by which he would erect a lighthouse on the Longships.

Between 1794 and 1795 Trinity House architect, Samuel Wyatt, constructed the lighthouse, initially at Sennen, marking each individual stone before moving them to Carn Bras but its 24m height meant that its light was often obscured by rough seas so the new circular tower was built.

The channel between the Longships and the mainland is very hazardous for shipping. Submerged reefs and strong currents contribute to the danger. Two of the reefs - The Kettles Bottom and the Shark's Fin can be seen at low tide.

8. The coast path begins to descend. You pass Greeb Zawn, a narrow chasm in the cliffs.

Turner's 1835 watercolour 'Longships Lighthouse, Land’s End’' was created from a sketch he made here at Greeb Zawn. Zawn is a Cornish term meaning a ‘hole in the cliff through which the sea passes’. You will encounter many 'zawns' around Cornwall's coastline.

9. Continuing your descent you can observe the granite formation, known as the Armed Knight, just offshore.

The Armed Knight is probably a reference to one of King Arthur's knights and the legends associating Arthur with this area. JT Blight in his book, 'A Week at the Land's End', gives the Armed Knight's Cornish name, 'an marogeth arvowed'. The rock is 200ft high and has also been known as 'guela' or 'guelaz' meaning 'the rock easily seen'.

10. Continue along the path. On the landward side is Carn Greeb which is believed to translate as 'cairn like a cock’s comb'

11. The path continues to descend and you soon find yourself opposite the island pierced by a rock arch known as Enys Dodnan.

'Enys' is the Cornish word for 'island'. Enys Dodnan is popular with seabirds. The cave piercing the island is over 40ft high (12.1 metres). Quartz veins can be observed criss-crossing the rock. In the late nineteenth century Blight recorded that the island had been visited at low tide without the aid of a boat. Please do not attempt this today. The cliffs and seas here are very dangerous.

12. The path climbs for a short distance. Please note that as the coast is constantly being eroded, the coast path may be diverted slightly inland to avoid crumbling cliffs and you should always follow the advice given at the location at the time you are walking. If a path looks unsafe to you, it probably is and bear in mind that paths can be undermined without this being immediately obvious. If in doubt, stick to a wider, safer path away from the cliff edge.

Zawn Tor is below you on the side of the small bay. The path passes Carn Enys. Nearby is Cairn Tork, meaning 'rocks like loaves' and JT Blight mentions another nearby stone known as the Ape's Head.

13. Follow the path past Zawn Wells.

Zawn Wells stands within a small cove. A signal house was formerly located here.

14. The coast path begins to climb towards Pordenack Point passing Carn Cheer.

Carn Cheer has several climbs.

15. The coast path continues to climb. You have now reached Pordenack Point. From here to Porthgwarra you are walking through a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).

Blight described this impressive headland. "On the summit of one of the crags, a rock about 5 feet high is very delicately poised, and appears to be resting on a mere point" The headland rises 200 ft (61 metres) perpendicularly above the sea. Several Bronze Age tumuli (burial mounds) have been identified at Pordenack Point and it is possible that an Iron Age Cliff Castle stood here. Turner made a drawing of Pordenack Point.

16. The path levels out for a while. Below you is Trevilley Cliff and the Lion's Den.

The Lion's Den is a large cave in the cliff face. The name which seems to date from the nineteenth century was probably an association with the bible story of Daniel, who was imprisoned in a cave full of lions.

In the 1800s, a ship was washed into the cave and wrecked. Of the 25 crew only 4 were saved. Two of the fatalities were discovered locked in each other's arms and were therefore buried together on the cliff top above the cave. One person was found below a huge boulder. Parts of the vessel were floated into Nanjizal Bay a little further along the coast. The fierceness of the storm was such that the ship's boom was found standing on end, on a ledge 30 ft (9.1 metres) above high water.

17. The path descends for a short distance.

To your right is Zawn Trevilley, a narrow chasm. You pass Carn Bean or Carn Vean (little cairn).

18. The path climbs again and you pass Carn Sperm.

Carn Sperm is Cornish and means the cairn of thorns from the words 'karn' meaning a rock pile or tor and 'spernen' meaning 'thorns'. There are several good climbs here.

Immediately south of Carn Sperm is another granite outcrop known as Carn Boel, meaning the bleak cairn.

Carn Evall is the next granite formation you encounter. Of interest to geologists it is possible to view the prismatic and cubical forms of granite together.

19. Shortly after the path descends for a short distance.

There are a number of little creeks along this section of the path Moz Rang (maid’s pool), Pludn (the pool) and Polgrean (the green pool). Mill Bay (Nanjizal Bay) is below you.

20. The path stays fairly level but is quite narrow and very near to the edge of the cliff.

Below you is another narrow chasm - Zawn Reeth. As you look across Nanjizal Bay you may see seals bottling, an activity in which they float with their heads above the water.

It was in this area that the original mainland to St Mary's, Isles of Scilly telegraph cable came ashore. It was laid by the cable laying ship the Fusilier in October 1869. The cable was moved to nearby Porthcurno.

21. After a short climb the path descends towards Nanjizal Beach.

Looking down on the northern side of the beach you may notice a rock formation forming a ridge projecting into the sea, known as the Diamond Horse. Its name is due to the quartz veins that run through it which sparkle in the sun.

On the opposite side of the bay you can see a narrow chasm in the headland of Carn Les Boel, the headland forming the southern boundary of Nanjizal Bay. This is Zawn Peggy.

A little further and the path passes Carn Cravah. There is a small cave on the landward side of the path. This is a mine adit so please do not enter. There are
several mine adits near this location. An adit is a horizontal tunnel. Nearby is a small gulley. This is an open-cast mine (openwork) which would have been worked in the pre-industrial revolution period.

22. Follow the path down to cross the footbridge.

If the tide is suitable you may wish to explore Nanjizal Beach. In the late nineteenth century, when JT Blight visited the Land's End, Nanjizal Beach was covered in white sand. This is not the case now. He also suggests that there was a second archway at that time through which the stream flowed. The stream was the boundary between Sennen and St Levan parishes.

Above the beach are the remains of the watermill which gave Mill Bay its name. The stream that once powered the wheel still cascades onto the beach. The water would have powered 'stamps' which crushed the ore.

A striking feature here is the wonderful rock arch. It's Cornish name is Zawn Pyg, which means 'cave like a bird's beak' but it has another name, 'Song of the Sea'

At the right time of day you can experience the wonderful sight of the sun shining through the arch.

There is evidence that mining has been carried out at Nanjizal for centuries and especially in Victorian times. Drainage adits on the cliffs directed water away from the mines. Other adits provided a point to enter the mine.

Episodes of the Dr Who series, 'The Smugglers', were filmed here in 1966.

23. The coast path now climbs quite steeply away from the beach. Keep away from the path that leads directly to the cliff edge as this leads to Zawn Peggy, a narrow chasm.

Lower Bosistow Cliff is from the Cornish word ‘Bos’ meaning ‘home’. The name was recorded as early as 1293, when it was written as 'Bodestou'.

24. The path reaches the summit of Carn Les Boel (Grid reference SW357232). You are now in the parish of St Levan.

Carn Les Boel is Cornish and means ‘cairn of the bleak place’.

This spectacular headland contains the remains of an Iron Age cliff castle including a shallow ditch and bank on its north side and two large stones which likely formed part of the entrance to the fort. One stone is upright and the other has fallen over.

Ley Line enthusiasts have noted that if you extend the 'St Michael's Line' westwards from St Michael's Mount it passes through this headland.

The headland is popular with rock climbers and has more than 40 climbs. However, please be aware there are seasonal restrictions between March and the end of June due to sea birds breeding. You should also avoid climbing during September and October as the area is a breeding ground for seals. Please visit UKClimbing.com for details.

25. The coast path cuts across the neck of the headland. Looking down on the southern flank of Carn Les Boel you will see a large rock known as Bosistow Island.

This rugged rock attracts gulls, cormorants and other seabirds. The island has a climb named after its north face.

You are now on Higher Bosistow Cliff. Prehistoric burial mounds have been identified here including a round cairn. The barrow is a scheduled ancient monument. It is a circular stony mound which measures up to 36 ft (11 metres) in diameter and 1.6 ft (0.5 metres) high. The mound has a central hollow, which suggests that it was possibly excavated in the past.

As you walk along the edge of the cliff, on the highest point there is reported to be the Bosistow Logan Rock (this is not the famous Logan Rock at Treen which is further along the coast after Porthcurno). We did not visit the Bosistow Logan Rock when we walked the coast path but a description of it was given by JT Blight in his book, 'A Week at the Land's End' - "It was discovered to possess the quality of 'logging' accidentally, by a man who was employed in watching the coast for the lord of the manor. A vessel had been wrecked in the cove immediately below, and whilst engaged in his duty, he leaned against a mass of rock which to his astonishment, he found in motion; the oscillation having been produced by the force of the wind."

26. The path levels out now as you walk along a large, grassy plateau towards Pendower Cove.

Pendower is Cornish and means 'head of the water, end of the water or headland of the water'.

The path passes Carn Bosistow. In the cliff below you is a large cavern but it is not accessible from the land.

Pendower Cove consists of two small coves. You encounter Inner Pendower Cove first and just after a spit of land near Carn Trevean, you are above Outer Pendower Cove. The cliffs here are popular with rock climbers.

Carn Trevean probably means ’rock pile of the small settlement (village)’ from Karn meaning rock pile, tre meaning settlement and vean meaning small. A small stream crosses the coast path near here.

27. Continue along the path passing Zawn Rundle, another tidal chasm.

Rundle is the former name of the Runnel Stone, a dangerous rock a mile or so offshore which has claimed many vessels. In the not so distant past, the buoy marking its location was fitted with a whistle set in a tube so when walking in this area and for quite a distance inland you would hear a ghostly moaning sound when the weather was stormy. We have heard this and it was a very eerie sound. Trinity House have recently removed this whistle and replaced it with a flashing light and a bell.

The Runnel Stone is very popular with divers, who come from all over the world to explore the many wrecks which lie beneath the waves at this hazardous spot.

The stone used to be much higher but in 1923 the vessel, 'City of Westminster' hit it cutting off the top 20 ft (6 metres).

28. Continuing along the path you will notice a small rocky cove below you. This is Zawn Kellys.

Zawn Kellys is more than a chasm in the cliffs. It is a small cove and the site of a fallen cavern which might account for its name 'kellys' which in Cornish means 'lost'. The cliff is popular with rock climbers with more than 10 climbs.

At the southernmost part of the cove is the headland of Carn Barra projecting out into the sea. Its name means 'Loaf Carn' or 'Higher Carn'. Carn Barra is an extremely popular rock climbing location with more than 100 climbs including ‘Great Central Chimney’ and ’Tower Gully’.

The cliffs here are known as Ardensawah Cliff. It is likely they were named after a man whose family lived here in around 1296-7 as that is when the name was first recorded as Arganseuwyth'. It is believed to mean ’Silver Stream’. A local farm carries its name.

29. After passing Carn Barra, the path soon arrives above Folly Cove.

The cliffs here are another popular spot for rock climbers with more than 10 climbs.

30. The small headland before you is Fox Promontory also popular with rock climbers.

Just south of Fox Promontory is Black Carn. This rock is a favourite with experienced rock climbers.

31. The path continues towards Tol-Pedn-Penwith.

You pass Blocks Promontory also of interest to rock climbers, a chasm known as Dutchmans Zawn, Pellow Zawn, another chasm with spectacular rock scenery, Tol Plous, 'tol' is Cornish for a 'hole'.

32. The path passes Pellitras Point, with more stunning rock scenery and over 20 climbs including ‘Cold War’ and ‘Red Snapper’. At this point you are about 15 minutes from Porthgwarra.

33. As the path approaches Porth Loe there are more climbs of interest including one called ‘The Beak’.

Porth Loe Cove is a large rocky cove at low water. In 1905 the Khyber carrying grain from Australia was wrecked here and was broken up within fifteen minutes of being washed into the cove. Three of the crew were saved using ladders but twenty three perished and are buried in a mass grave in St Levan churchyard.

The cliffs here are called Roskestal. This is Cornish and probably means 'Heathland of the Castle'. This is probably a reference to the Iron Age Cliff Castle, which is believed to have been constructed across the headland.

Just inland from the cove is a lake popular with birds. The Cornish word for a lake, pool or pond is 'loe' so the cove probably gets its name from this lake.

34. The path is now nearing the NCI Lookout Station.

The cliffs at Carn Guthenbras, meaning 'the great cairn' offer many challenges to rock climbers.

Zawn Rinny, a rocky chasm is below the National Coastwatch Institution lookout post known as NCI Gwennap Head. This former Coastguard Lookout was constructed between 1905 and 1910. Initially, it had only one storey but a second was added after the Vert Prairial, a French trawler, was wrecked on Wireless Point, Porthcurno on the on 14th March 1956. The trawler could not be seen from the one storey structure. Seventeen crew lost their lives. The coastguard station was closed in 1994, and re-opened on 21 October 1996 as NCI Gwennap Head.

It is likely that a signal station existed on Tol Pedn in the nineteenth century.

Below NCI Gwennap Head is a section of cliff known as the Chair Ladder. This mass of granite is believed to be the best in Cornwall. Not only of geological interest for its porphyritic granite (granite containing a mixture of large and small crystals) , pinite and red feldspar but famous across the world with rock climbers for its stunning climbs.

The Land's End Cliff Rescue Team train here.

The headland was formerly known by its original Cornish name, 'Tol Pedn Penwith', meaning ' the holed headland in Penwith'. This name is likely due to the huge chasm in the cliff. The Funnel Hole is a vertical blowhole created by the collapse of a cave. It measures about 20 foot in diameter. At its base, over 120 foot (36.5 metres) below, it leads out through a cave into Funnel Zawn

JT Blight described the Funnel as a great yawning chasm. "It is but six or seven feet from the verge of the cliff and descends perpendicularly. At the bottom a cavern from the face of the cliff face meets it, the two cavities making a letter L; the opening on the surface was formed by the falling in of the roof of a cavern. When the tide recedes the cavern can be entered".

By climbing down the cliff, Blight reported how the entrance to the cave is strewn with huge boulders and was 150 ft (46 metres) deep with a rising floor so that at its extremity its floor is 50 ft (15 metres) higher than at the mouth. it was possible to look up the funnel & see the blue sky.

Two men were trapped here during Blight’s time. Cut off by the tide one was able to swim and ran for help and brought fishermen with ropes and hauled him up to the surface

The headland is now known as Gwennap Head but local people still refer to it as Tol Pedn.

Tol Pedn used to be known as Land's End and in the early nineteenth century, to avoid confusion with today's Land's End, it was called St Levan's Land's End.

In the 1840s H McLauchlan recorded noticing ?faint traces of a Bronze Age tumulus at the top? of Tol-pedn-Penwith. Today there are no signs of this and the highest point is now occupied by the NCI Coastwatch station.

35. A short distance further you encounter two strange looking cones.

These are daymarks to warn shipping of the location of the Runnel Stone. The red cone is on the seaward side and the black and white one lies slightly inland of it. They are about 12 foot (3.6 metres) tall.

From the sea vessels should always keep the black and white cone in sight to avoid the submerged rocks.

A plaque on the black and white marker cone states. "This beacon was erected by the Corporation of Trinity House of Deptford, in Stroud 1821".

The navigation markers feature as "The Cones of Runnel" in Hammond Innes's 1940 thriller "The Trojan Horse".

Between 1880 and 1923 over thirty steamships were stranded, wrecked, or sunk in the area.

36. Below you is Polostoc Zawn and Polostoc Point. There is another Logan Rock between the daymarks and the cliffs.

37. The area is of great interest to naturalists.

Gwennap Head is part of the Pordenack Point to Porthgwarra Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) designated for its vegetation of waved maritime heath, and for being of considerable ornithological interest; especially for passage migrants.

Offshore, is the Runnel Stone Marine Conservation Zone, designated on 29 January 2016, It includes most of the coast from Gwennap Head to the east side of Treryn Dinas.

Heather (Calluna vulgaris), bell heather (Erica cinerea) and western gorse (Ulex gallii) are the dominant plants of the maritime heath. The red data species, perennial centaury (Centaurium scilloides) was refound here in 2010.

In the spring and early summer, thrift, spring squill, sea campion and kidney vetch are abundant.

Many marine bird species pass Gwennap Head including large numbers of common species such as northern gannet (Morus bassanus), Manx shearwater (Puffinus puffinus), common guillemot, (Uria aalge), razorbill (Alca torda), northern fulmar (Fulmarus glacialis), shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis) and cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo).

Other species include many waders, ducks, larks and finches especially during the peak times in May and October.

Birdwatchers frequent the headland from across the UK in search of rare seabirds such as the Great Shearwater and Cory's Shearwater, who can sometimes be seen here during July and August.

Other rare wildlife that has been observed here include chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax), great shearwater (Puffinus gravis), cetaceans including dolphins, basking shark (Cetorhinus maximus) ocean sunfish (Mola mola), Soft-plumaged Petrel (Pterodroma mollis) and Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanophris).

Choughs were common on this coastline in the 1800s and nested here because it was secure but by 1876 there was a noticeable decline in their numbers because of egg collectors and for many years afterwards numbers declined until the chough disappeared from Cornwall. Thankfully, choughs are slowly returning and breeding once again in Cornwall.

Resident butterflies include large white (Pieris brassicae), small copper (Lycaena phlaeas), common blue (Polyommatus icarus), small tortoiseshell (Aglais urticae), peacock (Aglais io), comma (Polygonia c-album), small pearl-bordered fritillary (Boloria selene), speckled wood (Pararge aegeria), grayling (Hipparchia semele) and wall (Lasiommata megera).

Some migratory butterflies often seen include clouded yellow (Colias croceus), red admiral (Vanessa atalanta) and painted lady (Vanessa cardui). Migrant moths include rush veneer (Nomophila noctuella), rusty-dot pearl (Udea ferrugalis), hummingbird hawk-moth (Macroglossum stellatarum) and silver Y (Autographa gamma).

38. Look out to sea and you will notice several islets.

These are the Gannel Rock and the Three Brothers.

39. Continue down the coast path.

Offshore are the rocks known as the Gothalls.

40. The path passes Gothalls Carns, Hella Point and Clidga.

Regular public sea watches have been held at Hella Point with basking sharks spotted frequently. In June 2010, 546 basking sharks were recorded. Sharks were sighted on most days. They are normally seen when they are feeding on plankton.

In his ‘A Week at the Land’s End', JT Blight refers to Hella Point as ‘Fairies’ Point'.

Hella Rock lies offshore from Hella Point.

41. The path descends and you are now in Porthgwarra.

Porthgwarra is a picturesque, secluded cove. Its name is believed to mean higher cove or cove by the wooded slopes. Porthgwarra is well known to birdwatchers as one of the UK's best sites for sighting rare birds. Red-eyed Vireo (Vireo olivaceus), Dusky Warbler (Phylloscopus fuscatus) and Yellow-browed Warbler (Phylloscopus inornatus) have been spotted here.

From the slipway there is a tunnel through the cliff created by St Just miners to make it easier for farmers to gather seaweed from the beach which they used to fertilise their fields.

Forty-five breeding species have been recorded in the area around Porthgwarra including choughs (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax), Eurasian teal (Anas crecca), European stonechat (Saxicola rubicola) and common whitethroat (Sylvia communis).


Public Transport

First Kernow and most bus services in Cornwall now offer contactless payment.

Bus Service A1 between Penzance and Land's End operated by First Kernow
Bus Service A3 between St Ives and Land's End operated by First Kernow


Visit Cornwall Public Transport for latest timetable


There are no buses from Porthgwarra. The nearest bus service, the A1 runs along the top of the lane.


OS Explorer Map for this walk - 102


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